Friday, August 29, 2008

Cannabis Wall and other things

It's about 7pm on a friday night in North Vancouver. The clouds have finally split and it's feeling rather autumn-like this evening- cool and dry and without the heavy muggy feeling of summer.
Lately, it has been hammering rain in Squamish. I have been in Site 52 in the campground for the most part, working some and climbing less.

I have been working on Cobra Crack with Matt Segal a bit. That route is, without a doubt, the finest single pitch I have ever laid eyes on. It is damn hard, but not impossible. This winter I am going to work on my one-finger mono strength and core tension so I can do the crux. Mostly though, I have been having a riot hanging with Matt. Matt is a couple years older than me but we share a similar outlook on life. Basically, we both have trouble taking anything seriously and find ourselves laughing hysterically even when the Cobra is soaked and we should be brooding.

Also, I have been fooling around on the Cannabis wall, trying to find a way too free the thing. It will be stout, no doubt. But I've got high hopes and am banking on a perfect three week stretch of bluebird weather this September. Wouldn't that be sweet?


Tuesday, August 12, 2008

Back Home

I just returned from OR in SLC. I am really, really glad to be on the coast. It has been a whirlwind summer for me and I haven't been in one place more longer than two weeks for more than three months. Now, it looks like I'll have some time to hang in Squamish and do some climbing with my good friend Matt Segal.

The OR show is a three day schmooze fest of head-nodding and hand shaking. So many friends, so many coffees and so many beers... Now I am sorting through an enormous mound of climbing gear, magazines and clothes at my parents house in North Van, wondering 'what the hell just happened?'

Before OR I spent some time in the bugaboos with Chris Brazeau. The bugs are a group of granite fingers south of Golden BC- an area I heard about for years but never visited. Chris and Jon Walsh had most of the gear stashed up there, so I rolled up there with a backpack full of beer, and not much else.

Brazeau is perhaps the most solid partner I have ever tied it with. He is eternally positive, eternally motivated and perpetually smiling. Though the weather was patchy, we managed to get out a few times and played around on the east face of Snowpatch. To be climbing 5.12 splitters above a glacier, with a great friend, is about as good as it gets.